What sockets for tube tester?
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#1 What sockets for tube tester?
Just built the electronics for a uTester3 from http://www.dos4ever.com - this is an excellent PC/uProcessor based full-function tube tester. Project blog & specs are here: http://dos4ever.com/uTracer3/uTracer3.html.
Now I've got to box this up. I'm thinking small flight case with a whole bunch of sockets...
But which sockets to provide by default?
Ideas please, for old English & US radios, valve amps etc.
What sockets do people actually use & need?
Thanks
Now I've got to box this up. I'm thinking small flight case with a whole bunch of sockets...
But which sockets to provide by default?
Ideas please, for old English & US radios, valve amps etc.
What sockets do people actually use & need?
Thanks
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt
#2
Well, are you only able to fit one ?
B5 was common for British valves and I think B4 will fit B5 sockets as well.
And IO (international Octal) which it seems, is different to Mazda Octal.
B5 was common for British valves and I think B4 will fit B5 sockets as well.
And IO (international Octal) which it seems, is different to Mazda Octal.

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- Paul Barker
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#3
kit looks great value. What power of valve can it handle? Any ideas?
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#4
Specs are on the project page I referenced in the OP. basically, any heater up to 19 volts and 1.5 amps. Any anode or screen from 0 to 300volts. Any grid from 0 to -40 volts. Max power is 65 watts...Paul Barker wrote:kit looks great value. What power of valve can it handle? Any ideas?
So, all types of tubes including multiple triodes, magic eyes, pentodes etc..
Its a very very good bit of kit. Extremely clever design - should be too as Ronald Dekker is a professor of electronics and senior researcher with Philips. The blog is an excellent read too...
I'm really enjoying building this...
Last edited by jack on Mon Dec 31, 2012 10:17 pm, edited 3 times in total.
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt
#5
Hi Nick,
Based on your tip off earlier in the year (thanks!), I too have just completed one of these as a Christmas present to myself.
Like you say, a fantastic bit of kit.
I too have been pondering the socket and switching arrangement and snapped up one of these to aid the switching between socket/pin configurations.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog ... -9206.html
I will post my configuration once I get it finalised.
Happy new year to all!
Best Regards
James
Based on your tip off earlier in the year (thanks!), I too have just completed one of these as a Christmas present to myself.
Like you say, a fantastic bit of kit.
I too have been pondering the socket and switching arrangement and snapped up one of these to aid the switching between socket/pin configurations.
http://www.hificollective.co.uk/catalog ... -9206.html
I will post my configuration once I get it finalised.
Happy new year to all!
Best Regards
James
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#6
Seems too good to be true.
I daren't spend the money on one but looking forward to some screen shots of when you guys play with these new toys.
I daren't spend the money on one but looking forward to some screen shots of when you guys play with these new toys.
"Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I am not yet completely sure about the universe." – Albert Einstein
#7
Way-hey James, Happy New Year to you and Trudy. Nice to know my local mate has a valve tester
I'm surprised the kit doesn't come with recommendations on valve sockets and switches. The original finished build seems to have a choice of 9 sockets.

I'm surprised the kit doesn't come with recommendations on valve sockets and switches. The original finished build seems to have a choice of 9 sockets.
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#9
That's not really the point of it - the s/w & h/w can test & measure a large range of tube types - the sockets are "secondary" - just interfaces, and you can have as many different types of those as you wish.Greg wrote:...I'm surprised the kit doesn't come with recommendations on valve sockets and switches. The original finished build seems to have a choice of 9 sockets.
It'd be great to have every socket type - say 25? - but that'd be a wiring nightmare. Best to be reasonably selective for those sockets permanently wired, and to use an octal->whatever adapter for those others odd ones.
The main problem to avoid is parasitic oscillation in the socket wiring, so its done like the AVOs - as loops with lots & lots of ferrite beads...
Vivitur ingenio, caetera mortis erunt
#10
This here tube tester, does it just test valves, or can it be used to plot the characteristics ?
I ask because I'm using a twin tetrode as parallel single ended and with positive grid bias and there is no published information.
I ask because I'm using a twin tetrode as parallel single ended and with positive grid bias and there is no published information.

The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
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#11
It's web page(s) says it works along with a Windows program that makes the plots, so apparently yes. Will need RS232 serial interface port though to connect PC to the board.
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#12
Given power supplies and meters you can plot your own curves.pre65 wrote:This here tube tester, does it just test valves, or can it be used to plot the characteristics ?
I ask because I'm using a twin tetrode as parallel single ended and with positive grid bias and there is no published information.
Does the tracer handle +ve grid voltages and current? Would be great if it does?
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#13
Hi PaulPaul Barker wrote:Seems too good to be true.
I daren't spend the money on one but looking forward to some screen shots of when you guys play with these new toys.
Here's a couple of pictures of the tracer in action with a KT66.
The tracer cannot handle positive grid voltages, the hardware generates negative bias voltages only.
Best Regards,
James.
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#15
Excellent. Sadly Vade Mecum only gives curves for 250v as the lowest G2.
It does say that at 200v g2 and zero g1 bias there would be 160mA whereas at 250v it would be another 50mA so 20 to 30% greater current per grid voltage.
So my 250v g2 curves would suggest at 300v -10v 120mA your findings at 200v a tad under 90mA, application of difference shown formerly would extrapolate 92mA so your valve looks right on the button.
I like the idea of using the relay base for simplicity and flexibility.
One could just make valve pin holes in Teflon push valve through and attach lebelled clip leeds for the other types, and have a relay base for octals.
I am wanting one now! WOW!!!!
It does say that at 200v g2 and zero g1 bias there would be 160mA whereas at 250v it would be another 50mA so 20 to 30% greater current per grid voltage.
So my 250v g2 curves would suggest at 300v -10v 120mA your findings at 200v a tad under 90mA, application of difference shown formerly would extrapolate 92mA so your valve looks right on the button.
I like the idea of using the relay base for simplicity and flexibility.
One could just make valve pin holes in Teflon push valve through and attach lebelled clip leeds for the other types, and have a relay base for octals.
I am wanting one now! WOW!!!!
"Two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I am not yet completely sure about the universe." – Albert Einstein