The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

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Mike H
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#571 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

Baggy Trousers wrote: Tue Feb 25, 2020 8:05 pm
Mike H wrote: Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:24 pm I was thinking of leaving the headlight as is so the generator has got something to actually do. My intention was to ride around with headlight on all the time anyway, as we do nowadays.
Like putting a load on my OTXs, you mean?

Nearly all my machines have been magneto ignition and generator charging, so I lack a familiarity with your arrangement. Perhaps it's akin to my old Model T which had the rudimentary electric lighting powered by the ignition coils - all four of them - and if you didn't switch the lights off before the ignition, you blew all the bulbs. Maybe I should try and move further into the 2oth century. But I too ride with dipped headlights - everyone should.
Yes a Bantam is pretty much doing 5,000 rpm all the time (unless it's idling) 'cause the "power" is so crap, about 4 hp in this case (so the twistgrip only has two positions – full on, and off :D I remember all this about my other one) so the generator has to be loaded else it's trying to make a zillion Volts then your wee tail light filament turns into a gas :lol: Someone told me all you need do is switch from low beam to high beam and it'll blow. There's no such thing as a regulator. Altho I designed one (an amplified Zener, kind of thing); I am waiting for the PCB's (involves SMD) then we might get a rein on the stupid output levels. Popular folklore says BSA were too tight to spend more money on it hence the electrical system suffers accordingly.
 
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#572 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

Slight change of subject, did I mention I am putting (or have already) LED bulbs in the Bantam, these are from Classic Car Leds, not cheap but maybe why they seem so good, so I invested in a bunch for the Ural too, here's a couple of viddys .....

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pre65
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#573 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by pre65 »

I used LED bulbs on my car reversing lights.

The law says a max of 21W for reversing lights, so I'm legal but can see better going backwards.

Can you get an LED headlamp bulb for the Ural Mike ?
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.

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Mike H
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#574 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

No I'm sticking to the Philips Xtreme for the time being. All the LED headlamp "bulbs" I've seen so far either don't fit, get too hot for lack of air or wrong light pattern. I think you need a complete purpose designed LED headlamp.

The main reason why I started this was only because I removed the rear light "lens" cover to get rid of condensation, but then noticed the tail bulb glass was going black/brown, so the filament was about to fail. Reason, bad centre contact. Cleaned that up, OK, then thought if it was a LED "bulb", it wouldn't fail like that.
 
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#575 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

This was a "recommend" on YouTube –

 
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#576 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Baggy Trousers »

The world of LEDs can be a minefield.

Unquestionably, these things offer huge advantages in bike applications, (although they cannot be employed with direct lighting systems) but there are many permutations of the theme and peculiar legacies from earlier generations, like fan-assisted cooling and large heat sinks which cannot be incorporated in the shallow style of most Japanese headlight shells. Most of the headlight "bulbs" project an unsatisfactory beam pattern and this aspect should be considered carefully unless one wants just a daylight running light.

I have found that the easiest and most effective way to deal with the subject is to go to Paul Goff's website and take it from there. I have been dealing with Goffy for years and can thoroughly recommend his advice and products. However, whilst he offers excellent stuff, his headlight LEDs are not cheap - I think, including postage, I paid something like £42 for my last one. But for a H4, ca75W output, 2,5A consumption, first class beam pattern and extra sharp cut-off plus 30,000 hours life expectancy, I think that's not bad value. These are available in BPF style too. eBay offers similar products at less than half this price but beware - I have tried some and found them to be substantially inferior to the ones Goffy has developed.
Last of the late brakers.
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Mike H
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#577 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

Progress report – not been on much lately due to stuff and sh!t, and Bantam needing LOT-TTTAA new bits and work to do.

Where the hell did we get up to? Oh yes speedo was rebuilt and new bulb holder etc. Check. That's one "sub-assembly" that's finished and is ready to go back on.

Another "sub-assembly that is ready to go back on, when it's got a last new connector, is the rear mudguard. With new number plate 'cause original was too small, wrong shape and crooked.

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Rear mudguard stays are too short. Someone on Bantam club forum needed to get new ones, and assured me holes centres are 385mm, mine are 363mm! Mudguard was under enormous tension with them on. I've got tubing to make new ones.

Clutch cable was stuck on g/box lever. Something weird going on there, managed to get it off (brute force and ignorance with big screwdriver).
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Clutch cable badly chewed up, as tho been having a fight with pliers, and lost. Got a new one to replace it with.
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#578 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

Toolbox lid Dzuz fastener. Obviously a new one but rattles about in huge hole. Aluminium washer squashed around the back to hold it on. I replaced all this with a grommet, a couple of O-rings and an E-clip.

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Bad photo but toolbox is going to hold a couple of small batteries, and a rectifier. Blocks of wood at bottom for them to stand on. Large batt is a 4 A/h, small one standing on end up the right side is a 1.2 A/h. Ultimately will be secured with rubber sheet and blocks.

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Tesing new LED pilot bulb. This was off Amazon and it's flippin' bright. Draws 130 mA. I'm doing a soak test over several hours to make sure it's reliable.

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#579 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

Now to the serious stuff...

Bodged front wheel nut is an outer shoulder nut cut in half... I've got a correct new one to repace it with. There's also supposed to be a washer.
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Like this...
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One reason why front brake is so useless is because the drum has been painted ON THE INSIDE
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The other reason, only the trailing shoe seems to have been doing anything.
 
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#580 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

No photo so I'm going to put this up – front wheel bearings are shagged. During a long period of the bike being in "storage", water has got in and rusted them. Right side might have got away with it because of the drum, but now got new bearings to put in. Also the fibre washers for the pressed on dust covers, not strictly necessary with sealed bearings but why not.
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Forks are shagged. At least, need new bushes. Good news, I could loosen the caps.
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#581 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

Also...

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Image
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Yep all the front stays are too long. I'm now wondering if these are parts from different bikes.
 
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#582 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

I had all the plunger rear suspension apart today. This is the left side. The rubber rebound buffers are entirely missing from both sides. This side had a spring collar missing. The 'U' clamps for the wheel spindle, are in the wrong places, left side is about 1mm shifted, the right at least 1/8 inch. This meant the clamps were staggered which made the spinlde nuts bind in the slots, and the slider tubes bind on the centre rods. NB, the centre rods are in a sorry state, lots of evidence of corrosion and lot of wear on the right one. On order, plus rubber buffers and spring collars. Also a tool to help compressing them to go back on!

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Exploded diagram:
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That's all so far
 
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#583 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Mike H »

trying to "train" the new gaiters to go over the seal holders. I'm not optimistic TBH.

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Playing with new handlebars, to ensure new cables fit. Also need to drill these for mirrors.
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"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
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#584 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Greg »

Mike H wrote: Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:13 pm trying to "train" the new gaiters to go over the seal holders. I'm not optimistic TBH.
They’ll fit with a bit of brute force and a large dose of washing up liquid.
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#585 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by pre65 »

Mike H wrote: Fri Mar 13, 2020 9:13 pm trying to "train" the new gaiters to go over the seal holders. I'm not optimistic TBH.

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Have you tried soaking the gaiters in hot water ?
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.

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G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
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