The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

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Dave the bass
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#481 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Dave the bass »

The Kent Chapter of the Audio-Talk Ruffty Tuffty Biker Boyz Gang had an outing today down to Headcorn, our-Thomas on his (hairy arsed!) 1952 AJS 500cc Model 18 (I think. (DIET Confirmed!) and me on my recently finished and now road legal 1960 Redditch-built 350cc Bullet. Good fun ride out.

Brum brums...
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Last edited by Dave the bass on Wed Aug 21, 2019 9:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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pre65
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#482 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by pre65 »

Well done you two. :)

Who left the oil stain on Thomas's drive ?
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#483 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by thomas »

And a very enjoyable day t'was too.... acutually Dave mine's a rufty tufty hairy chested AJS M18 500cc....

Quite disconcerting at Headcorn was parachutists landing and aeroplanes taking off and landing seemingly amidst them....

Anyhow, back to the bikes, interesting how mine was a long stroked lazy slogger heavyweight of a beast whilst yours was a peppier, revvy, nimble, shorter-wheelbase beast. Both behaved impeccably with only a few err minor incontinencies (that's the bikes...!)
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#484 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by thomas »

Ah that territorial marking on my drive will be the AJS chaincase Phil... :)
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#485 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Dave the bass »

500cc Model 18, noted MrT, ta! Next up we'll compare Indybum 500cc Bullet with hairy chest ruffty tuffty model 18 :)
pre65 wrote: Wed Aug 21, 2019 8:50 pm Well done you two. :)

Who left the oil stain on Thomas's drive ?
Ta Popz,

Don't talk to me about oil leaks. For the last 2 weeks I've been trying to work out why my 350 Bullet keeps splurging oil out of the tappet cover of all places. I've learned all about engine breathing, scavenging pumps and rubbish timing side oil seal design practices of RE circa 1960.

Today, after a jolly good ride out I'm happy to report zero splurging of oil at the end of the run...
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That area behind the tappet chest would often be swimming in nice warm oil, but today with a 'revised' crankcase breather arrangement its bone dry, even after a bit of spirited throttle-joshing on a gorgeous new bit of road. I'm still running mine in.
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#486 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by pre65 »

Well sorted Dave, it just shows it can be done. :)

Re the AJS & Matchless tin chaincases, they always were a bugger to make oiltight. I seem to remember hearing about pouring melted tallow in a dry chaincase to seal it from inside.

Might be true ?
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#487 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Baggy Trousers »

pre65 wrote: Wed Aug 21, 2019 9:40 pm Well sorted Dave, it just shows it can be done. :)

Re the AJS & Matchless tin chaincases, they always were a bugger to make oiltight. I seem to remember hearing about pouring melted tallow in a dry chaincase to seal it from inside.

Might be true ?
It is true and it works - for a while.

Years ago, I stripped and thoroughly cleaned the case halves on my G80, assembled and poured in gloss paint (magnolia I think), drained and let dry for a week. It worked perfectly until I dropped the bike and the footrest dislodged everything. The double-lipped "Lancaster" band seal is a big improvement upon the original.
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#488 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by thomas »

I fitted a supa dupa all singing neoprene seal to my M18 chaincase over winter, replacing the rubber band.....it's slightly less drippy than it was...previous owner had got busy with the old silicone sealant which may have worked for about 5 minutes....
Melting tallow sounds fun, I might try that next time ....
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#489 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by thomas »

Dave's bike on the other hand behaved impeccably, and a credit to his rebuilding skills.

I'm not sure what animal he was hiding in his rear brake tho......
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#490 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Dave the bass »

thomas wrote: Thu Aug 22, 2019 6:46 am Dave's bike on the other hand behaved impeccably, and a credit to his rebuilding skills.

I'm not sure what animal he was hiding in his rear brake tho......
Ta, yeah very pleased with my 1st proper nut 'n' bolt rebuild/restore project. Its in its 'phase 1' completion stage at the moment, thats why its running with its not original fuel tank and 2nd hand rear mudguard from a different year. I've got the originals safely packed away for when I've saved up enough sweety money in a jar to have the tank repaired/un-dented/re-chromed and the mudguard re-chromed too which many folk have told me is frighteningly expensive. When/if that gets done it'll be 'phase 2' finished.

That strange growl from the rear brake... I found this stuck in there...
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#491 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Baggy Trousers »

Evenin' All (followed by gentle knees bend). This is a simple one but as I have degenerated to a similar level of simplicity, I'm seeking the team's help, please.

Two of my bikes are fitted with LED headlight bulbs. One has a 4k lumens output and the other is brighter with an output of 5k. (£37!).
I prefer the more powerful output but it differs in performance from the 4k model as it behaves conventionally in that the dip element switches off as the main element is brought into circuit. However, the lower wattage unit has the dipped array permanently in circuit with the main beam being switched as required. This provides both a wide beam and simultaneously a long-range spot focussed beam. Ideal!

I should like the more powerful bulb to function in the same way but suspect I shall need a diode between the two circuits in order to do this. I believe the maximum consumption is 30W (12VDC). Heat generation is unlikely to be a problem.

Any ideas?

Baggo.
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shane
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#492 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by shane »

Could you not just rewire it so that the dip bulb is permanently connected to the output of the light switch, and the main is switched on and off in parallel by the dip switch? I’m pretty sure I wired my mini that way in the dim and distant.
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#493 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by thomas »

Being simplistic I'd just wire in two independent on/off switches, for dip and mains....

Or a two arm rotary switch of some sort....?
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#494 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Baggy Trousers »

<r><QUOTE author="shane" post_id="168058" time="1566976898" user_id="104"><s>
shane wrote: Wed Aug 28, 2019 8:21 am</s>
Could you not just rewire it so that the dip bulb is permanently connected to the output of the light switch, and the main is switched on and off in parallel by the dip switch? I’m pretty sure I wired my mini that way in the dim and distant.
<e>
</e></QUOTE>

Well, of course I could if I'd been able to see the wood for the trees. Spent hours wondering how to arrange heater supply voltage to an RCA 55 thermionic diode, or don't people use those any more? :roll: A silly case of needless over-complication. Thank you Shane - it's been a year or three since we last spoke. <br/>
<br/>
Thomas - yes it would work but rather clumsily, I'm afraid. Nevertheless thanks for the suggestion.</r>
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#495 Re: The Audio-Talk Motorcycling thread.

Post by Baggy Trousers »

Got another question -

Rather than resort to the basic arithmetic with its attendant variables and inaccuracies, I invested as much as £7,50 in a digital tachometer. This was in seeking to establish what road speed I might be doing in a given gear at a specific crankshaft speed - rather like the old Triumph Speed Twin speedo which gave all this info and led you into the back of a bus whilst reading it.

I have tried the bike on a rolling road but the EMF emitted by the magneto scrambled the electronics, so the results were gibberish. So, I purchased a cheapo digital tacho, driven by the HT impulses. Sadly, the information conveyed by this gizmo is no more intelligible than that of the rolling road. Is this just another piece of useless Chinese junk or do you suppose the radiated emissions are affecting this in a similar way?
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