EY500 help please? Phil, others who have used it?
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#1 EY500 help please? Phil, others who have used it?
1) The Russian ones I have are i.c. for 1,3,6,8 which are the four wings of the Anode. Do you find it necessary to connect externally to each pin or do you just connect to any one of them?
2) Do you reference the heater supply? I suspect at my voltages (max of 725 - 0 - 725) it hardly matters.
Any suggestions?
Think I'll ref anyway. But if you know better please pipe up?
2) Do you reference the heater supply? I suspect at my voltages (max of 725 - 0 - 725) it hardly matters.
Any suggestions?
Think I'll ref anyway. But if you know better please pipe up?
Last edited by Paul Barker on Fri Apr 20, 2012 11:10 am, edited 1 time in total.
- pre65
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#2
I use any convenient pin.
On 833a I reference one side of the heaters to full HT (950v) and I did the same with 845.
I believe the max volts difference is 600v.
On 833a I reference one side of the heaters to full HT (950v) and I did the same with 845.
I believe the max volts difference is 600v.
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- Paul Barker
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#3
Thank you Phil.
Since I asked I found this Svetlana article which seems to suggest there is no need to reference it to the cathode, which one would expect to do, because they say that you can put it on the same heater supply as the other valves in circuit.
they also say it can be operated from a 5v supply, which is a real mbummer to discover now that I have purchased two 6v torroids and mounted and soldered them in, only to find I could have used the 5v 6a going spare on the HT transformer. anyway it's hooked up so I shant change it back. Get less voltage drop from 6v (though that doesn't matter to me this time).
I think I'll leave it to find it's own level. If it goes pop it won't be a first. I can live with the experiment.
Since I asked I found this Svetlana article which seems to suggest there is no need to reference it to the cathode, which one would expect to do, because they say that you can put it on the same heater supply as the other valves in circuit.
they also say it can be operated from a 5v supply, which is a real mbummer to discover now that I have purchased two 6v torroids and mounted and soldered them in, only to find I could have used the 5v 6a going spare on the HT transformer. anyway it's hooked up so I shant change it back. Get less voltage drop from 6v (though that doesn't matter to me this time).
I think I'll leave it to find it's own level. If it goes pop it won't be a first. I can live with the experiment.
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#4
On 833a I have two 6.3v windings on each Antek 360-0-360 toroid.
One winding is for the 6D22s damper diodes and the other is for the EL34 and 6SN7.
So, full HT on one winding (6D22s) does not affect the other two valves.
One winding is for the 6D22s damper diodes and the other is for the EL34 and 6SN7.
So, full HT on one winding (6D22s) does not affect the other two valves.
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#5
theoretically people should be able to use 4 of these in a bridge with a single heater supply.
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#6
Would that be much of an advantage against just two in a hybrid configuration ?Paul Barker wrote:theoretically people should be able to use 4 of these in a bridge with a single heater supply.
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#7
I think it would depend on whether you had a regulator between the dirty end of the PSU and the output to the HT line
Either way it is something I had been considering trying when I was thinking out the 813 power supply.
Stephen's (Izzy Wizzy) friend/colleague Ian built the 813 push-pull amplifier below:
6 x 6D22S can be seen in this pic.
The front four are a bridge rectifier supplying the 813 output stage
rear two are supplying the VA and driver stages.
Either way it is something I had been considering trying when I was thinking out the 813 power supply.
Stephen's (Izzy Wizzy) friend/colleague Ian built the 813 push-pull amplifier below:
6 x 6D22S can be seen in this pic.
The front four are a bridge rectifier supplying the 813 output stage
rear two are supplying the VA and driver stages.
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#8
That looks great.
I think Phil the valve diode usually beats the solid state diode. I don't hold to the concept that buffering the solid state by passing it through a valve diode is sufficient. Surely swtitching noise or whatever else silicon be it fet bpt or diode does which makes sound worse than when a valve is employed instead is best not present at all.
I think Phil the valve diode usually beats the solid state diode. I don't hold to the concept that buffering the solid state by passing it through a valve diode is sufficient. Surely swtitching noise or whatever else silicon be it fet bpt or diode does which makes sound worse than when a valve is employed instead is best not present at all.
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#9
Possibly, but Steve uses just one in his all conquering 6B4-g superamp.
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#10
Might sound better with four in it.
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#11
Aye......that it might.Paul Barker wrote: Might sound better with four in it.
What I really need to do is make sure that the amps I build have big enough
cases to fit all the bits in. Trouble is I have domestic considerations to consider, which does not sit well with outright quests for the ultimate in sound quality.
The 801A amp for example would have been better on two chassis but two huge chassis, whether beeswaxed or not, would not have gone down well.
My wife has complained since I built the 6B4G monos that they look too industrial, which is part of the reason I shelved the 813 project and downsized it to 801As.
I managed to squeeze the bits into one case that is not too large an looks decent enough to complement the Topps built Metronomes.
Her standards have gone up since the Mets came to live here and a pair of guitar amp chassis plonked either end of the hi fi table don't do it anymore.
So four valve rectifiers, need more space, which needs a hefty heater supply, which needs a bigger chassis, which starts to dominate....you can guess the rest.
It's that Colin's fault!
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#12
Indeed.
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#13
Ok so just to verify this for me for the 6EM7/KT66 amp
Ueaing a Antek 400-0-400v toroidal connect the 6D22S to any pin between 1.3.6.8 and the Top cap is the HT out to first Cap and pins 4/5 two 6.3v windings
should I add the 6EM7/Kt66 to the same 6.3 heater as the 6D22S or use the other available 6.3v winding for the 6EM7/KT66
http://www.tube-town.net/info/sed-techn ... 52fig2.gif
Ueaing a Antek 400-0-400v toroidal connect the 6D22S to any pin between 1.3.6.8 and the Top cap is the HT out to first Cap and pins 4/5 two 6.3v windings
should I add the 6EM7/Kt66 to the same 6.3 heater as the 6D22S or use the other available 6.3v winding for the 6EM7/KT66
http://www.tube-town.net/info/sed-techn ... 52fig2.gif
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#14 EY500/6D22S
Hi all,
If the manufacturer states a pin is ic then they can use it for any purpose, so it is very sensible to stick only to the pins marked as specific electrodes.
I think it is good engineering practice to run all the heaters from separate windings as should the valve arc over (not unknown) then there is no danger of trashing the following ccts.
I have tried using 5V heaters and it takes an inordinately long time to warm up and also I found the HT not up to he same level as 6.3V heaters.
I also have used them very successfully in a hybrid full wave Graetz bridge.
I suppose it all goes back to my younger days but I also like to reference the cathode/anode as necessary
John
If the manufacturer states a pin is ic then they can use it for any purpose, so it is very sensible to stick only to the pins marked as specific electrodes.
I think it is good engineering practice to run all the heaters from separate windings as should the valve arc over (not unknown) then there is no danger of trashing the following ccts.
I have tried using 5V heaters and it takes an inordinately long time to warm up and also I found the HT not up to he same level as 6.3V heaters.
I also have used them very successfully in a hybrid full wave Graetz bridge.
I suppose it all goes back to my younger days but I also like to reference the cathode/anode as necessary
John
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#15 Re: EY500/6D22S
Quite right, I.C. means "Internal Connection", which means don't use it as there's no guarantee what it's connected to, a different manufacturer may well connect it to something different from what the first manufacturer did, or even, it's not connected to anything at all in fact.John Caswell wrote:Hi all,
If the manufacturer states a pin is ic then they can use it for any purpose, so it is very sensible to stick only to the pins marked as specific electrodes.
On datasheets I've got where there's an "IC" it says "INTERNAL CONNECTION ONLY, DO NOT USE"
Some bases don't even have a pin in that position
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