'E'-Choke
#136
Hi Mike
I have built up one of the boards and installed it in the amp.
It seems to be working OK but the heatsink is getting very hot.
Voltage drop across the module is about 45V, and the load is about 130mA.
Configuration is:
Rectifier > choke > 100uF > e-choke > 1000uF > load
Voltage at C1 is about 348V
Voltage at C2 (load) is about 303V
Ripple at C1 is about 500mV RMS
Ripple at C2 is about 1mV RMS
CG is 47uF
Does this seem as if the module is working OK? The voltage drop seems high to me?
Thanks
Max
I have built up one of the boards and installed it in the amp.
It seems to be working OK but the heatsink is getting very hot.
Voltage drop across the module is about 45V, and the load is about 130mA.
Configuration is:
Rectifier > choke > 100uF > e-choke > 1000uF > load
Voltage at C1 is about 348V
Voltage at C2 (load) is about 303V
Ripple at C1 is about 500mV RMS
Ripple at C2 is about 1mV RMS
CG is 47uF
Does this seem as if the module is working OK? The voltage drop seems high to me?
Thanks
Max
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#138
Yes. I've increased the 'available' number on the web page to 10.
Try taking the 47uF off CG, as it might be leaky. The current sink tolerance is very low at this point, as it goes through a 470k resistor, so ANY leakage will have a large effect. 1uA will drop it half a Volt, so sounds like it's dropping about 20V (40uA ). And the Voltage here is about 4 - 5V above OUT. I'm assuming you've still got the 10uF on the board?
I'm also thinking 1,000uF on the output is very large, 100uF would be plenty I would have thought.
@ 130mA the MOSFET should be dissipating >=3 Watts (25V drop).
Yes it is, should be more like 27V.Max N wrote:I have built up one of the boards and installed it in the amp.
It seems to be working OK but the heatsink is getting very hot.
Voltage drop across the module is about 45V, and the load is about 130mA.
Does this seem as if the module is working OK? The voltage drop seems high to me?
Try taking the 47uF off CG, as it might be leaky. The current sink tolerance is very low at this point, as it goes through a 470k resistor, so ANY leakage will have a large effect. 1uA will drop it half a Volt, so sounds like it's dropping about 20V (40uA ). And the Voltage here is about 4 - 5V above OUT. I'm assuming you've still got the 10uF on the board?
I'm also thinking 1,000uF on the output is very large, 100uF would be plenty I would have thought.
@ 130mA the MOSFET should be dissipating >=3 Watts (25V drop).
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
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#141
Mike I can't see E choke anywhere on Living in the Past.Mike H wrote:Yes. I've increased the 'available' number on the web page to 10.
Either you have taken it down or you need to take a look at how your website is designed.
Also when you use your search facility it just routes you to a standard internet search so, a chocolate fire guard for searching your site.
Not so much a criticism as an observation which may help you.
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#142
A. This particular 'offer' was meant to be exclusively for Audio Talk members only as it's at cost price, hence you can't find it through the web site. It was only meant to help somewhat with the initial cost of having 50 boards made so the number available always was limited and not expected to last very long. Ultimately the idea is that the web site will show ready-built modules which will have a profit mark-up accordingly. Only haven't found time to do it yet.
B. The link to that particular page is in the Buying And Selling > E-Choke V4 Boards topic, I've just repeated the link post again to be sure, as there's a few more available now (I moved the goalposts).
C. I'm not clever enough to write search engine code, although I tried something like it once and it wasn't very good, and anyway there's little point since Google works so well.
Oh except, the page has also got <meta name="robots" content="noindex"> so Google won't know about it either.
I.e, it's supposed to be a secret just between ourselves.
Next?
B. The link to that particular page is in the Buying And Selling > E-Choke V4 Boards topic, I've just repeated the link post again to be sure, as there's a few more available now (I moved the goalposts).
C. I'm not clever enough to write search engine code, although I tried something like it once and it wasn't very good, and anyway there's little point since Google works so well.
Oh except, the page has also got <meta name="robots" content="noindex"> so Google won't know about it either.
I.e, it's supposed to be a secret just between ourselves.
Next?
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
#143
This is a re-post from my 300B PSE thread in 'Everyone's Projects', just so that the E-choke info is all in one place:
Following Mike's advice I removed the 47uF C1 and just fitted the 1uF that Mike supplies in the kit. This has done the trick, voltage drop is now 27V (which I reckon is near enough what we expect?) and I can keep my finger on the heatsink (just)
B+ ripple is now about 2.5mV RMS
While I had the amp on the bench, I took some measurements. The amp is flat from 10Hz to 90kHz, there is no hump in the bass.
Most importantly, it now sounds very good to my ears. I just have to get the other one running again and then I can listen in stereo.
Thanks again Mike
Following Mike's advice I removed the 47uF C1 and just fitted the 1uF that Mike supplies in the kit. This has done the trick, voltage drop is now 27V (which I reckon is near enough what we expect?) and I can keep my finger on the heatsink (just)
B+ ripple is now about 2.5mV RMS
While I had the amp on the bench, I took some measurements. The amp is flat from 10Hz to 90kHz, there is no hump in the bass.
Most importantly, it now sounds very good to my ears. I just have to get the other one running again and then I can listen in stereo.
Thanks again Mike
- Mike H
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#144
Has it still got the fuse on it?
Assuming you are Matthew (lol) hopefully posting you the further 4 modified sets on Monday.
Edit: yes 27V sounds more like it.
In your case the MOSFET is dissipating about 3.25W so will be a bit hot yes.
Assuming you are Matthew (lol) hopefully posting you the further 4 modified sets on Monday.
Edit: yes 27V sounds more like it.
In your case the MOSFET is dissipating about 3.25W so will be a bit hot yes.
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
#145
No, the fuse has been replaced by the 10R - I think its all as per your latest spec.Mike H wrote:Has it still got the fuse on it?
Assuming you are Matthew (lol) hopefully posting you the further 4 modified sets on Monday.
Edit: yes 27V sounds more like it.
In your case the MOSFET is dissipating about 3.25W so will be a bit hot yes.
Yes I am Matthew
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- Mike H
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#148
Clear off ...
Okey-dokey then!Max N wrote:No, the fuse has been replaced by the 10R - I think its all as per your latest spec.
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
#149
I managed to resurrect the fetreg that I blew up a few days ago - had to replace the mosfet and R5, which had gone open circuit. Its now working fine, so I have two working amps.
So to re-cap:
With the original fetreg specification I had one amp working OK and one buzzing.
I then fitted the latest spec, with the SMD resistor mod, and with a 47uF in the C1 position. This worked but the voltage drop was higher than expected. Mike diagnosed this as a leaky C1.
I then fitted the original 1uF 630V cap (as supplied in the kit) in the C1 position. The voltage drop now is 27V as expected, and the heatsink is hot but not too hot.
I have 100uF as the first cap and 1000uF as the second cap. Ripple is less than 2mV RMS.
So to summarise, the latest spec of fetreg with the smd resistor modification is stable even with very high values of input and output cap. Ripple attenuation is very good even with just 1uF in the C1 position.
Am I right in thinking that with the 10R in series on the output, the output impedance is quite high? In any case, that is one reason why I have stuck with a very large output cap - to ensure a low impedance supply down to low frequencies.
So to re-cap:
With the original fetreg specification I had one amp working OK and one buzzing.
I then fitted the latest spec, with the SMD resistor mod, and with a 47uF in the C1 position. This worked but the voltage drop was higher than expected. Mike diagnosed this as a leaky C1.
I then fitted the original 1uF 630V cap (as supplied in the kit) in the C1 position. The voltage drop now is 27V as expected, and the heatsink is hot but not too hot.
I have 100uF as the first cap and 1000uF as the second cap. Ripple is less than 2mV RMS.
So to summarise, the latest spec of fetreg with the smd resistor modification is stable even with very high values of input and output cap. Ripple attenuation is very good even with just 1uF in the C1 position.
Am I right in thinking that with the 10R in series on the output, the output impedance is quite high? In any case, that is one reason why I have stuck with a very large output cap - to ensure a low impedance supply down to low frequencies.
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#150
No that's one of Nick's tricks, it isolates the output capacitor from the regulator output which makes your amp sound betterer. He can explain it better than I can at the mo ('cause I've forgotten the intricacies as usual).
I wouldn't have though 10R would make it that much more "high impedance", you could try 100uF and see if it makes any real difference really.
Otherwise all sounds good!
You could still increase CG if you can find a less leaky electrolytic? So far I'm using 10uF Panasonic radials they seem OK.
I wouldn't have though 10R would make it that much more "high impedance", you could try 100uF and see if it makes any real difference really.
Otherwise all sounds good!
You could still increase CG if you can find a less leaky electrolytic? So far I'm using 10uF Panasonic radials they seem OK.
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."