Horn Loudspeaker Project.

Ray P · Post by **Ray P** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 7:49 pm

Although plaster looks to be a promising material I don't want to focus exclusively on it and have been mulling over fibreglass (GRP) as well.

This would seem to be good but I know it isn't as dead as plaster so I've been thinking that it could be painted with some of the sound absorbent paints that have been appearing, used for deadening cars, boats, etc. The trouble is that it only seems to exist in the USA. Does anyone have any info or experience on these sorts of paints?

Ray

Audio_Works · Post by **Audio_Works** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:19 pm

Im not sure what kind of paints you have in mind, but i have successfully used the sound proofing paints from automotive industry, the stuff they use for anti corrosion as well . I'm sure you can find Teroson, 3M products or Sinto. I worked with these 3 brands and was happy.

You need a special air gun tho for it and the paint looks kinda like asphalt, like bitumen.

Ray P · Post by **Ray P** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:28 pm

This is the sort of paint I came across when searching.

Ray

http://www.soundproofing.org/sales/liquid.htm

Audio_Works · Post by **Audio_Works** » Wed Dec 07, 2011 8:33 pm

yea, its the same stuff i'm talking about. You should find this paint in lots of auto parts shops.

Ray P · Post by **Ray P** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 6:56 am

Audio_Works wrote:yea, its the same stuff i'm talking about. You should find this paint in lots of auto parts shops.

Thanks Audio_Works (do you have a forename?), I'll check it out; maybe an automotive shop could do the spraying? When you said the pait was like asphalt/bitumen I had a picture od something like very thick black treacle that never quite sets, not at all like the stuff I linked to. BTW, their application video also shows it being applied with a roller.

Ray

Audio_Works · Post by **Audio_Works** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:12 am

I'm pretty sure a shop can do the spraying but it will be pricey. Its fairly easy to apply it. Its not so sensitive as normal paint.

After it dries when you touch it you will get that bitumen feel. I guess you can apply it with a roller if you get it in a bucket.

I use this kind of gun and 1L paint cans, its a very fast way to paint.

However if you don't plan to use this kind of paint often then i guess its not worth investing and you should just use the roller.

Andy

pre65 · Post by **pre65** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 9:22 am

I see it needs between 3/16" & 1/4" thickness to work properly, that will be a few coats.

When I was younger (like late teens) we used Adup bronze underseal on our Mini subframes and stippled it on with an old paintbrush.

Audio_Works · Post by **Audio_Works** » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:06 am

This is another advantage of the air gun, you can make the layer be pretty thick.

Andy

chrisby · Post by **chrisby** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 10:53 pm

Audio_Works wrote:This is another advantage of the air gun, you can make the layer be pretty thick.

Andy

generally that results in longer drying times - with solvent and water based paints/lacquers etc on cabinets & millwork we like to use several light coats with sanding between when appropriate

Audio_Works · Post by **Audio_Works** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 11:17 pm

well this stuff dries pretty fast, i guess depends on working conditions as well.
This paint leaves a heavy pattern and if sanding is desired, i strongly believe its should be done after the last layer is dried, its pretty useless to sand in between layers. It is very very different than the normal paints.
When the paint is applied on the outside, one or more layers of normal paint should be applied on top of it because on its own it gets dirty very easily and gets the one that touches it dirty as well

. The normal paint can be applied with or without sanding of the sound-proofing paint.

audio-talk

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