DTB vs DIY MLTL

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al newall
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#271

Post by al newall »

Very nice job Dave, i admire your patience.

My old dad who was a joiner, used to reckon you should varnish or stain all surfaces, so that they behave the same in different temperatures. ie. expanding and contracting.
Something to do with moisture absorbtion.
Don't know if it matters here or even if he was right, but it sounded plausible.
Much to learn there is.
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ed
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#272

Post by ed »

Dave

.....and more importantly I forgot to mention the prob with big cabs and 'hifi' spikes. I found with the first pair of bigguns that I built that if you move them and don't put them down exactly square you can dislodge those hateful hifi spikes.....since the ariels I've fitted these to all my attempts and found them much stronger..

get a penny washer and drill 4 holes around the edge at compass points and then weld an 8mm nut to it....use 8mm spikes
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Scottmoose
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#273

Post by Scottmoose »

You don't think that my drivers aren't EnABL'd do you? ;^) (well, they're not yet, but end of the month, they will be).
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Dave the bass
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#274

Post by Dave the bass »

ed wrote:
Cheers for the prop's Ed.
I forgot to give you this one
Arf! Is that some kind of treble pusher-forwarder thing?


..or just an incredible easy-to-hand aviation propeller
:shock: :D

Just WHO has a handy propeller in their living room???!!! C'mon hands up :lol: :lol: :lol:

DTB

PS. Prop's = yoot speake for 'respect/well done old bean'.
"The fat bourgeois and his doppelganger"
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ed
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#275

Post by ed »

my hand is up I got to fess up I am that nerd........prop is a spare from that magnificent machine that I had before the one in my avatar...

halcyon days of yore, whats that you say Ginger? Oh yeah

chocks away miss Prenderghast

tally ho
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Dave the bass
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#276

Post by Dave the bass »

al newall wrote:Very nice job Dave, i admire your patience.

My old dad who was a joiner, used to reckon you should varnish or stain all surfaces, so that they behave the same in different temperatures. ie. expanding and contracting.
Something to do with moisture absorbtion.
Don't know if it matters here or even if he was right, but it sounded plausible.
Thanks Al,

Your Dad sounds like a man in the know, in that case Nicks easy get out is over ruled by Al's dad :D

Good reason for a Googlefight!
http://www.googlefight.com/index.php?la ... out-clause

Proved! But the lazy git in me says leave the buggers :)

DTB
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Dave the bass
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#277

Post by Dave the bass »

Scottmoose wrote:You don't think that my drivers aren't EnABL'd do you? ;^) (well, they're not yet, but end of the month, they will be).
Gulp, you mean when I heard your cabs they weren't connected to an amp :shock:

They sounded brilliant!

DTB
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Dave the bass
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#278

Post by Dave the bass »

ed wrote:Dave

.....and more importantly I forgot to mention the prob with big cabs and 'hifi' spikes. I found with the first pair of bigguns that I built that if you move them and don't put them down exactly square you can dislodge those hateful hifi spikes.....since the ariels I've fitted these to all my attempts and found them much stronger..

get a penny washer and drill 4 holes around the edge at compass points and then weld an 8mm nut to it....use 8mm spikes
Doh! I'll keep an eye on them to see if they shift at all Ed, they're the 'drill 10mm 'ole and bang in' variety from Wormslow Audi <sic>

I've got some screw in jobbies coming from WD too that I may use for a plinth or whatever, until they're singing who knows.

Hmmm... now a welder... I haven't got one of them yet!

DTB
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al newall
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#279

Post by al newall »

Proved! But the lazy git in me says leave the buggers
Yes, thats what i'd do as well.
But then i never built anything properly from decent ply. :wink:
Much to learn there is.
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Nick
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#280

Post by Nick »

My old dad who was a joiner, used to reckon you should varnish or stain all surfaces, so that they behave the same in different temperatures. ie. expanding and contracting.
Yep, that does make perfect sense to me to. So, tell me again, just how are you going to do the inside surfaces?
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#281

Post by Dave the bass »

Nick wrote: Yep, that does make perfect sense to me to. So, tell me again, just how are you going to do the inside surfaces?
A very talented mouse named Gerald has offered to go in and varnish the insides for me achally.

So there. :D

DTB
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al newall
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#282

Post by al newall »

Thats another thing.
Treating both sides, prevents warping.
Another of dads pearls of wisdom.
I wonder how many people ever do this.
Certainly not me.
Much to learn there is.
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david C
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#283

Post by david C »

good quality ply won't warp,
David

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#284

Post by simon »

Nick wrote:Yep, that does make perfect sense to me to. So, tell me again, just how are you going to do the inside surfaces?
:lol: :lol: :lol:

Not that I know anything (about anything really) but I would have thought that ply was pretty stable with the plys being cross-bonded. That's the beauty of ply, its stability and reliability; it's used for beams in the construction industry (as is centuries old oak I know, but ply beams are a lot cheaper material wise and section wise). Y'see how good I am at convincing myself about things when additional work is required? And for the record the bases of my 208 horns weren't varnished some 5 years ago :P.
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Nick
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#285

Post by Nick »

A very talented mouse named Gerald has offered to go in and varnish the insides for me achally.
You see, thats why Colin left the hole for't ferret.

Have you ever met a ferret Dave, lovely things, if you are ever up here I will introduce you to one.
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