well i got the xlps off paul today, (cheers paul the money is winging its way to you) and the result is alot better, the harshness is much reduced and is almost bang on what i wanted from the deck. ive found a set of spikes kicking about, and also a set of brass feet off an old cabinet. the feet are rounded on the bottom so i'll tap the bottom if the supports as both are 8mm threads and see whats better. the spikes are steel. any ideas on further improvements i could make?
it seems with this type of plinth that little changes can make a lot of difference, alot more than with wood or ply plinths. is it worthputting spikes/feet on both tiers? i havent really looked at the slatedeck plinths for these sort of details, i was usually just looking and drooling!
also what can i use to finish it? i read somewhere that it is oiled to finish but i dont really want to start splashing 20/50 all over it
it seems with this type of plinth that little changes can make a lot of difference, alot more than with wood or ply plinths.
What I believe is going on, is that slate is adding far less of its own signature to the sound than wood or MDF, and as a result the effect of other parts are more clearly heard, they would have been there before, but were masked by the colouration of the wood.
But thats just my hypothesis anyway.
Whenever an honest man discovers that he's mistaken, he will either cease to be mistaken or he will cease to be honest.
well i got the spikes fitted today, i cut down the pillars and tapped a thread into them for the spikes. twas a little hairy trying to do one at a time with the deck in situ. i couldnt move it as i was supposed to be looking after the kids! i got it done in 3 times as much time as it should have taken and managed to almost epoxy myself to the deck! (bloody fool). quite frankly i am amazed at the difference this has made. the deck has stopped sounding mechanical and 'hifi' and transformed into being musical. (maybe the tiny contact point of a spike transfers energy into the bottom tier more efficiently?) everything seemed to snap into focus and sound natural. instead of making me focus on what it was doing right or wrong it made my foot tap. thats what i was after in the first place!
finally im happy with it and theres nothing in particular nagging at me to sort something that i cant seem to put my finger on . crap records still sound crap but i doesnt seem to matter now. peter gabriels 'so' has sounded bloody awful on almost everything ive had bar the jvc's but i sat and listened to it all way through for the first time in a year today. the deck will probably get thoroughly shown up by the 401s et al at owston, but ive got it working in my system how i want it to now. and all it took was borderline ocd in respect of the arm and actually trusting my lugholes for once.
i'll post a few pics later of the spikes and the mk3 arm
well i had a most enjoyable couple of hours listening to the deck last night and didnt think id need to do anything else to the deck. however one thing is niggling at me. whilst poking around at it i noticed that theres a heck of alot of flex in the motor unit top plate. push down on the edge of the platter and it will move by about 5mm. looking underneath while doing it you can see the bearing move when you do it. theres a plastic cap over the end of the bearing that can be removed so im thinking about 'grounding' the bearing to the bottom tier using some of the cutoff from one of the support pillars. question is, do i remove the plastic cap and attach it it directly of leave it on. the reason for asking is that looking at it i cleaned out the bearing and used oil instead of grease to run it. (i didnt have any grease and what was in it was clearly past it) the bearing isnt oil tight and weeps abit. has to be topped up quite frequently and the cap collects it. i could go back to grease i suppose but what kind? i dont think copper grease which is all i have would be much good as its hi temp stuff and the bearing wont get hot enough for it to do its job. any ideas on grease?