Greg wrote: ↑Sat Aug 08, 2020 1:58 am
I would have lioke the thought, Baggo, considering the bike the chain is to be fitted to, a split link would be fine. Just buy a decent quality chain around the length you need, but slightly longer and split the chain and remove the unwanted links before fitting the split link. Simples!
Sorry for slow response - I've been shielding. I think.
I am coming to like this bike very much, but whilst not wishing to suppose that Honda might have got their sums wrong, I felt that the machine was over-geared - the standatrd gearing is 15/36. Additionally, I thought that since I've little interest in achieving escape velocity, I might trade some speed for acceleration which would be more useful. So, having done some basic calculations and armed with a few tax dollars unexpectedly refunded by the Internal Revenue Service at the President's request, I bought some 525 X-ring chain and a few sprockets. Chain is DID and sprockets JT, so it's quality stuff. I discovered that the PO had fitted a 16T front end and this accounted for the unduly long legs. I replaced this with the proper 15T thingy and then fitted a 38T wheel at the back; things were better, so by now I had some idea of where I was going, but the chain was getting rather short.
I attacked the original and somewhat worn chain with a grinder. What a ridiculous performance! - is one expected to carry a cordless angle grinder as part of the tool kit? There is 40mm of potential adjustment available in the swinging arm, so with the new chain of 110 links (as opposed to the original's 106), I fitted a 40T sprocket but now felt that I'd overdone it a bit and 60mph cruising was feeling rather busy at 4400rpm. From the factory, the final drive ratio is 2,40:1 but the PO had reduced this to 2,25 which was too much for this engine.
The chain came with a solid link connection; I also ordered a springy job but your'e right Philip, it's not like the old days of just slipping the loose plate on - the combination of having to compress the seals and the interference of the GOLD plate requiring the use of the tool (and prising it off again) made things much more difficult. In fact, in order to assemble the link, I had to omit the seals from one side, otherwise it was not possible to get the spring located**. Incidentally, the spring link came with dire warnings of reduced strength and all manner of disasters (probably including Covid) if it was used. Of course the strength bit is rubbish as the open ends of the riveted type needed for expansion are weaker than the solid pins of the spring link. I suspect this is some CYA stunt by the manufacturers.
Anyway, with a revised FD ratio of 2,5:1, (16/40) I'm a happy camper with what I feel is an acceptable compromise. I could have employed a 15T front and 38T rear which provides substantially the same ratio but opted for the larger wheels as they allowed additional clearance of the swingarm on the chain top run. So in the end, I have done just as Greg suggested.
** When I'm sure that this is the final iteration, I'll attend to the link and assemble it properly. That way I shall avoid disaster and Covid and, possibly, the displeasure of the MOT tester - the one I use is likely to spot something like that. Which is why I use him.
My thanks all who have contributed.
My shrink tells me that burdening others with boring and irrelevant tripe assists with my therapy. I'm feeling better now, thanks.
Last of the late brakers.