I need to de-solder lots of pins on a PCB.
I have some de-soldering braid, but I think (perhaps) that a tool such as this might be more useful in view of the need to save the actual board for re-use.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electric-Deso ... 1c30a84f6c
Any other suggestions welcome.
EDIT This is what I'm trying to do.
http://deutschermanfred.de/en/fernbedie ... -t_EeNdWta
De-soldering tool.
- pre65
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#1 De-soldering tool.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
- Dave the bass
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#2
Depends on the type of solder used but I've found sometimes its easier to de-solder a many pin device/plug/thingy by adding fresh solder in 1st then remove the bigger blob, sounds daft but its worked many many times. Also, sometimes just adding solder in allows the the heat to spread throughout the joint and you can slowly (and carefully) remove a many pinned device with VERY gentle leverage from the watch makers screwdriver under the body of whatever you're trying to unsolder and work your way along the connecting pins. You have to be very careful not to damage the print on the PCB natch.
Once the 2 are seperate, then you can clean things up with a solder pump like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/new-Solder-Su ... 4d1984031e and/or braid.
The braid can oxidise and 'go-off' if you dont keep it clean and away from open atmosphere BTW. It makes sense to keep it in a little zip bag we've found.
All IME, HTH (etc).
DTB
Once the 2 are seperate, then you can clean things up with a solder pump like this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/new-Solder-Su ... 4d1984031e and/or braid.
The braid can oxidise and 'go-off' if you dont keep it clean and away from open atmosphere BTW. It makes sense to keep it in a little zip bag we've found.
All IME, HTH (etc).
DTB
"The fat bourgeois and his doppelganger"
- pre65
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#3
Thanks Dave.
One problem is that the component side of the board is not accessable.
One problem is that the component side of the board is not accessable.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
- Mike H
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#4
What Dave said I mostly apply heat while applying leverage under the component, worked for me 90% of the time for the last 40 years.
Did try a solder sucker once but found it too frustrating compared to the 'crowbar' technique.
Did try a solder sucker once but found it too frustrating compared to the 'crowbar' technique.
"No matter how fast light travels it finds that the darkness has always got there first, and is waiting for it."
- Dave the bass
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#5
If you're stuck and not in a hurry post it to me and I'll do my best on it.pre65 wrote:
One problem is that the component side of the board is not accessible.
S'no prob's.
"The fat bourgeois and his doppelganger"
- pre65
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#6
Thanks Dave.Dave the bass wrote:If you're stuck and not in a hurry post it to me and I'll do my best on it.pre65 wrote:
One problem is that the component side of the board is not accessible.
S'no prob's.
I'm going to try a games controller first just to make sure the thing is worth persevering with.
The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
Edmund Burke
G-Popz THE easy listening connoisseur. (Philip)
- colin.hepburn
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#8
I have just taken delivery of one of these Desoldring stations it is built down to a price for sure but it works a treat on pcbs boards the parts just fall out I also got spares for it like spare gun and heater elements and bits and bobs i got it for £67.00 a bargin
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_kw= ... 1604036928
also see youtube demo
http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/sis.html?_kw= ... 1604036928
also see youtube demo