BICYCLE & CYCLING: Bicycling in Ireland

Bicycling in Ireland: a superb alternative

André Jute

“Are you lost?” asks the young policeman who sees me reading my map at a crossroads of six country lanes. That tells you everything you want to know about bicycling in the Irish lanes. People are friendly and helpful; it is the done thing to stop for a chat. The young policeman knows me by sight; he knows that I am not seriously lost: he can see my map and I’m standing right under the signpost-tree.

The other amazing thing is that, only six miles from where I live, I am on a lane I have not cycled before, with five choices beside the lane on which I arrived. From where I live, less than 20 miles from the Republic’s second city, Cork, there are an infinity of roundabout circuits to choose. The danger is falling into a rut, riding the same handful of favourite lanes all the time, rather than exploring.

Bicycling is making a steady comeback in Ireland. It is good exercise and it is a fun way to see, hear and smell the real Ireland that you cannot see from the car, the bus and the train. Bicycling is now so popular with Irish and incoming holiday makers that most hotels and guest houses will tell you the good places locally to rent a bike and which are the safe lanes for a halfday or day-long ride. Vickery’s Hotel, in Bantry, Co Cork, for instance, offers a map of suggested cycling routes right next to the car hire and taxi cards.

Let’s be quite clear. Major roads and the busiest of the secondary roads in Ireland are quite as dangerous as those where you live. I’m not suggesting that you tour Ireland by bicycle, city to city. In West Cork we do see major league long distance bicycle tourists almost daily, so it is possible and enjoyable. But they invariably turn out to be experienced long distance bicyclists in either Ireland or their home countries. If back home you’re a major bicycle tourer, then you will enjoy serious bike touring in Ireland; if not, join us more relaxed daytrippers on the many safe minor Irish lanes.

Even if you don’t cycle regularly at home, or have never cycled before, the charming Irish lanes are a super place to cycle. The main thing is not to be too ambitious, to go no further and no faster than is comfortable for the slowest member of the party. A 16 kilometre round trip, about 10 miles, on most of the Irish lanes I know is a leisurely ride of about two hours, including a couple of unhurried stops for refreshment and sightseeing. Even the relatively fit middle-aged should be able to do that in the morning and another ride in the afternoon, but that might make casual cyclists saddlesore, so why not just plan one such trip per day? Bike rentals are far too cheap to worry about not using the bike you’re paying for!

Incidentally, if you look towards your holiday for a spot of hard exercise, I just described everything you need. That ride gets my heart rate up to 80% of maximum for a thirty-minute section, with the rest as warm-up and wind-down. It’s a magic trick: it seems to everyone like a relaxed social outing but, to those who specifically want the exercise, it is excellent exercise.

You can rent a bike in almost every shop where bicycles are sold or repaired. The rental of bicycles is organized and can be pre-booked, Internet address below. Rental should include a lock, pump, repair kit and insurance. Children's bicycles and accessories such as helmets are also available for hire.

Two tips: Even if there isn’t a chain rental agency where you want to go, most of the Irish country bike shops will in fact rent you a bike of some sort, so also check Raleigh’s list of Irish dealers (address below). Your favorite hotel or guest house owner knows who to rent bikes from locally and will probably be happy to make the bicycle reservation for you.

The best map for bicycle daytripping in Ireland (and for local sightseeing in general) is the Irish Ordinance Survey’s Discovery Series of around a hundred detailed maps. Buy the map or maps that cover your intended holiday spots in advance from map shops or internet retailers, and in Ireland from bicycle shops, newsagents and tourist offices; or ask at the local libary. The scale is superb, the detailing excellent, right down to standing stones. The only problem is that the detail is so fine, the maps show farm lanes that are too rough for casual cyclists to ride for pleasure. But visual inspection of the lane at the junction will instantly tell you whether it is rough; a more agreeable lane is rarely further than a few hundred yards along the hedgerows.

Carry a health bar and a bottle of fizzy or water with you on even a two-hour ride. The lanes you’ll be cycling are too small to lead to a shop; day-long tours (up to 40Km or 25m max) should be planned to a village big enough to offer a pub lunch for a big break at the midway point.

Make a point of discussing the route with the bike supplier and your local hosts. They are bound to know the best rides. For instance, right after I finish writing this, I have a choice of cycling with two groups of friends, both of whom have foreign visitors. One group is making a historical cycle, following the footsteps of Michael Collins to Beal na Blath, the other is interested in yacht racing and therefore will make a bicycle pilgrimage to the America’s Cup designer Ron Holland’s house on the Bandon River by Kilmacsimon Boatyard. Both routes are super-scenic. A hard choice. I might just go speed down some hills I know.

•Bike rental: Raleigh+353-1-626-1333 www.raleigh.ie click on Rent-a-bike; also try their list of Irish dealers. Bikes €20 (about US$17) per day, €80 per week, €100 per week for rent-it-here-leave-it-there. Deposit €80.

•Bike rental: Celtic Cycling +353-503-75282 www.celticcycling.com serves the Southeast, including Carlow, Kilkenny, Waterford and Wexford. Bikes €10 per day, €60 per week, credit card deposit. Cycling tour packages for more serious cyclists.

•Bike rental: Local dealers charge about €8-16 per day and €40-70 per week.

•Books & leaflets: Leaflets from Tourist Offices www.gulliver.ie, hotels etc on local biking routes. Cycle Touring Ireland (€9) available from tourist offices.

•Essential maps: Discovery Series from Irish Ordinance, available at local newsagents and Tourist Offices, about €7.50 each.

•Carrying a bicycle on public transport: Bus, at discretion of driver, €10 any distance (usually not collected). Intercity train, price varies, serious restrictions on Sundays. www.buseireann.ie, www.irishrail.ie, search for “bicycle”.